Imperial Macedonian/early Seleucid pikeman

In the grim darkness of the past?

Imperial Macedonian/early Seleucid pikeman

Postby Matt-J2 » Mon May 30, 2011 5:19 pm

My other option to take to Lacrosse in Aug, used for later Macedonian or early Seleucid. This one went pretty fast(apparently that's becoming my thing) also, not a whole lot of detailing involved. Shield was painted separately so I could get at the areas under it. Might do a design on it later. White goes on easy over Deneb Stone, fun fact. The pike itself is just there for ref, if I go with these I won't do the pikes until last so I can make sure the butt end is resting on the ground, not in it or over it.

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Thanks for looking. :)
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Postby muwhe » Mon May 30, 2011 6:15 pm

Matt,

I think those look good. Have you looked at the LBMS decals?
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Postby Matt-J2 » Mon May 30, 2011 7:26 pm

Thanks!
I hadn't looked at the transfers, forgot all about them! Thanks for reminding me. I'll have to pick some of those up.
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Postby RichN » Mon May 30, 2011 8:26 pm

Nice work. A transfer on the shield would really make the unit pop.
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Postby muwhe » Mon May 30, 2011 9:20 pm

The LBMS Polemarch transfers work well and fit our Gorgon small aspis shields.

I'm sure they make some for those Crusader shields as well.
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Postby Thogrid » Tue May 31, 2011 9:51 am

Looking good Matt! out of curiousity, when you say this guy "...went pretty fast", how long did he actually take...say from scraped and primed to complete like in these pictures?

When I get some of mine finished, would you mind if I posted some pics to this thread?

Last question (for now) to the group in general...how long do you make your pikes? 70-80mm? 80-100mm?

Thanks!
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Postby Matt-J2 » Tue May 31, 2011 10:47 am

Good question! I don't know exactly though, it just felt pretty fast. I'd guess but it was a few days ago and I'm really horrible at gauging the passage of time anyway. I'll check the clock next time I sit down to do one.
I do want to change the bronze though, this is just too orange for me. Maybe also make the sandals more brown, for contrast. Feel free to post your own! Be nice to see what everyone is doing. As for the pike length, mine are at the 100mm they came at, but I've thought of cutting them to 80-85mm before I paint them. There was a thread on the subject on the WABForum where Jeff Jonas added this: "3x the height of the figures is good. Later phalanxes carried longer pikes so up to 4x can work. But I think around 80-90mm looks best." Even before Jeff jumped in there was a good consensus on being around 80mm or so, as that's ~17' at scale. I was thinking of cutting mine to 85, but not sure yet.
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Postby muwhe » Tue May 31, 2011 1:52 pm

Mine are 80mm.

If they are to long they get in the way gaming and constantly get snagged on a sleeve etc...
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Postby Thogrid » Tue May 31, 2011 10:42 pm

Thanks for the replies Gents.

I thought I remembered hearing about Mr. Jonas' thougths on pike length...three times the height of a man and all. I'm making mine out of O'Cedar broom bristles and sort of eye-balled three times the height. Just measured a couple and they ended up being 80-85mm. Who knew?!!? :lol: I like the broom bristles as they have enough give to bend a little but are sturdy enough to handle the rigors of my fat fingers on a game table. Plus you don't have to worry about impaling your hand on a pike.

Matt...on the bronze, I like to use GW Shining Gold covered with a 50-50 wash of GW brown ink or the Army Painter mid tone dip (what I used on my US Cav and Souix/Northern Cheyenne for the Little Bighorn game). It may be too far on the gold side for you...
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Postby Matt-J2 » Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:56 pm

Now have mkII. Still working on the bronze. Something happened with the primer on this and the others in the batch. Going to need to take care of that. I kinda like this bronze, but going to try one more thing, Reaper Master Series. Been wanting to try them anyway, the 2 I have are really nice. Also go for the tanned flesh set, should work good for guys hanging out in the desert.
This guy took me maybe an hour, but a lot of that is grabbing for new paints and such. Doing a batch of 4-5 should be rather less than 2 hours, as none of the painting aside from the bronze really took much time.

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Postby Matt-J2 » Fri Jun 10, 2011 3:59 pm

Just tried a new method....I think I like it. Orange-bronze, but darker. Need to go back and do a quick touch up, will try and get good pics after that. Real cloudy though, not a lot of light to work with.
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Postby Matt-J2 » Fri Jun 10, 2011 4:29 pm

I *think* this will do it. It's a cruddy day for pics, and it's really hard to show right now, but here's some bronze. Will work on the rest of the model later.
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Postby Matt-J2 » Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:51 pm

Ok, so I have this guy finished. I'll be honest, when I finish a figure this way instead of rushing, I feel pretty darn good. Still working on camera skills, the red shows up much brighter than it is, the white also to a lesser extent. The pike(s) will get done after all the basing is done, so the pike is resting on the ground, not in or above it. Shields to come after as well. Means I waste a little time doing the shield arm and parts of the scabbard and such, but oh well. Not sure if I'll do the shields in white with freehand/transfers, do them in bronze, or a mix of both.
Hope everyone enjoys, and thanks for looking!
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He's eyeballing you!
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Postby Thogrid » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:32 am

Very nice indeed Matt! This guy looks great! I particularly like the bronze on this one. So...how did you do this bronze?
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Postby Matt-J2 » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:06 am

Thanks! I started with Tin Bitz(GW), then followed with a few layers of very thin Dwarf Bronze(GW), then a few of very thin 50/50 Dwarf Bronze(GW) and Silver(VMC). Then in spots some very thin pure Silver(VMC). It's a process where I took it all the way up, then went back down to Dwarf Bronze if it was too much, then back up a bit if needed.
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